Right Side Up And Upside Down

Welcome to Saipan

2006-05-13T23:35:00.000-07:00

Saipan is a beautiful island about a 3 1/2 hour plane ride from Japan. It's quite close to Guam and has quite a turbulent past for such a small island. Erin and I had a great time enjoying the beaches, traditional foods and the company of the friendly locals. This was most certainly a last minute caution throwing to the wind capricious trip. Since Saipan is an American territory no more language barrier and we got to pocket some U.S. bills again, damn this money is small!
Check out that white ghost. On our first day Erin and I went straight to the beach to go for a swim and soak up some much needed sun. The island is actually small enough to drive around it in about 2 hours. We happened to arrive during the Flame Tree Festival, which kind gives the impression that we planned that. Check out this traditional boat design! The indigenous peoples of the island were called Chamorro and Carolinian. For hundreds of years they used this style of craft to sail as far as Okinawa with the stars as their only navigational guide. The guy on the left is sitting in the navigator's seat. The navigator was well respected within the native community. They were raised as navigator's and without their knowledge their civilization wouldn't last. The most interesting feature of the boat is the mast. As you can see there is a triangular sail and also a 'support mast'. When the Chamorro wanted to tack they didn't turn they simply picked up the sail and using the 'support mast' to pivot it's weight moved the sail from bow to stern. If you were sitting in the middle of the boat the sail would pass directly overhead, ingenious I've never seen anything like it. Because of the festival we were able to take it for a spin for free even though the tide was out and I had to help push.

I was only able to pick up one or two Chamorro words. "Hello" = "Hafa Adai" (said 'half a day') and "Wind" = "Angil" (said 'an gull')

Here is beautiful example of one of the many friendly locals. This is Moon from Thailand. We met her husband Ron Smith as well and over the course of the next couple of days they helped us out immeasurably. They tipped us off to all the must see attractions of Saipan and Tinian (neighboring isle), took us out cruising on their catamaran to a small near-by island called Managaha, took me out diving at Saipan's biggest attraction "The Grotto" and even provided us with accommodation for most of the trip. See I told you they were friendly. Some natives with great hats. Apparently the traditional clothing of the Chamorro was the lack thereof which when you think about it is simply conducive to the damn hot climate. However and thankfully we didn't see anybody sporting the traditional dress. Oddly enough these guys were camera shy and refused me to take their picture unless I was in it, hence the shoddy picture. Speaking of fotos I didn't take here we are at Bird Island at the Northern end of Saipan close to "The Grotto". Can ya guess why they call it that? Be wary to not break any local laws when visiting an unfamiliar place. Betel, pronounced beetle, comes from a kind of palm tree and is similar to nicotine as a drug. Popular amongst the locals it's chewed like tobacco and becomes red and stains the floor therefore the sign at the airport. Here's an interesting sight. A Japanese tank from World War II frozen in time seemingly aiming directly at a U.S. freighter carrying American troops. There were about 6 tanks in the shallow waters. Some in not so good condition, but others were still intact. The tank I wanted to see was kinda far out there, but it was well worth the swim. It was in about 12 ft of water gun still mounted, tracks still on and the turret was actually open. I was swimming around it when I saw a grey shape in the water and automatically fear conjured it into a shark, but I just tried to push that notion out of my head. Because this was definitely the most interesting thing I've ever been snorkeling at and I was still well within the reef. But then I saw it a black spotted ray witha 4 ft wingspan just hovering on the ocean floor. It was amazing.

And now for something completely different....this just in Erin Lawrence has been certified as a PADI Open Water Diver!

You heard right. The diving family welcomes it's newest member Erin Lawrence into the other 70% of the World. "A whole new world...a new fantas.....ah nevermind." Yup, she completed her course work and 4 ocean dives. I was lucky enough to tag along with her and the divemaster on each one for a sum total of $25! We saw all kinds of weird and interesting sea life including giant blue starfish, a sea cucumber as big as a small dog, schools of tuna and a flatfish like a flounder with a topside fin mohawk. We dove at two locations. Both were beach entries with impressive 20ft coral formations. The divemaster spent the first dive pulling her down by her BCD. Maintaining neutral buoyancy isn't the easiest thing in the world, but by the end of the 2nd dive she was off exploring on her own. Erin was even comfortable enough to do a swim-through the reef on her last dive. Excellent diving!

Speaking of diving here is a shot of a not so enthused Erin peering down the gullet of the Grotto. Ron Smith, a friendly local I mentioned earlier and dive master, took me diving at the best diving site on the island. This was certainly one for the books. First of all you have to descend a hundred crumbling stairs into the Earth in full gear and then time a surge before crossing over to the entry point. You can see a huge boulder behind Erin from which you have to do a giant leap entry from about 10 ft up. Take a look at a couple of divers timing a high tide surge<<<<. The gaping hole of a tide pool has something nicknamed "the washing machine" which is some place you don't want to be, however local kids use the grotto as swimming hole. After the giant leap entry it's smooth sailing. We descended to 60ft and you can see 3 wide blue light exits ahead. Just fantastic blue light streaming down through this 60ft wide cavern. We actually swam through to the Pacific and went down to 100ft and on into something called the bat cave. It was a huge opening about a 100ft across and only about 100ft deep with great Gregorian fans hanging from the ceiling. I was even lucky enough to spot a sea turtle swimming about 50ft away!! It was an extraordinary dive! Not to mention an amazing vacation! Hope you all enjoyed living vicariously through this travel log. Within the next month or so we will be returning to American soil for Michael & Kendra's big day and a long overdue reunion tour with much rejoicing! See you real soon.

Saipan is part of the Northern Marianas Islands.

Green Kyoto

2006-05-13T23:10:00.000-07:00

Green tea ice cream. I can't stand the stuff, but Erin loves it.

(No caption for this one.)

An old bamboo forrest surrounding the Emperor's Palace.

The Ghost of Kyoto

2006-03-28T00:12:00.000-08:00

Erin and I enjoy visiting Kyoto, the first capital and oldest city of Japan, every so often to take in one of the many temples and shrines. On one of our last visits we happened upon a ghost. We ventured into Kyoto on the last day of another night festival. A selected number of temples were illuminated and open to the public, including a Zen rock garden and one of the Great Buddhas. On display were numerous National Treasures_personal possessions of the emperor. Actually we stumbled upon the knowledge of the night festival when we wandered into a local art gallery in Kyoto. Over tea and amongst new friends we partnered with serendipity again. Hopefully you will be able to enlarge these photos. An empty room with only a single candle burning illuminates a Japanese character. Just to the right of the character is a green light (ghost, of course).

While I took the photos I didn't see a thing, however the light appeared on a number of these shots. I stood in the same place and the light seemed to move from left to right and then I heard a booming voice "NO PICTURES, PLEASE!" It was the security guard...or was it?

Believe what you will, but just keep in mind the green light showed up only on the pictures, it was an empty room, I was alone and I didn't move the light, err sorry, the ghost did.

The Shogi Blues Ain't So Bad

2006-02-16T21:52:00.000-08:00

I went to the Tennoji Zoo and took a bunch of pictures but, I took my best shots of the bums that live in the surrounding area. These guys have a pretty nice set-up. Apparently the local government doesn't mind too much that they build sizeable homes with locks on their doors, T.V. s and even slippers for indoors. To pass the time they sing karaoke on the streets or in the parks and play Shogi (similar to chess) and Go (not similar to anything) on homemade boards.

2006-02-02T23:16:00.000-08:00

Because I'm the Fishman, yeah I'm the Fishman #2

I snapped this photo at the a three-day festival in honor of Ebisu. Ebisu is one of the 7 lucky gods. You could pick him out of a police line-up pretty easily. "That's him officer the jovial chubby guy with the fishing rod in one hand and big red fish under his arm." Every year thousands of people come to his shrine to throw money and pray for prosperity and good fourtune.

new year`s resorution revorution begins #1

2006-01-25T21:03:00.000-08:00

Like all resolutions this one stumbled and fell off the starting line. However, from now on I'll try to update a photo per week. Erin an I came across an art exhibit of contemporary Japanese calligraphy. I asked a woman, dressed in a traditional kimono, if I could take her picture and she agreed in near fluent English to my surprise. What's more she turned out to be one of the artists and continued to give us a detailed explanation of everything from the technique to her favorite piece, which turned out to be her own. As you can see from the above photo these works were of large format ranging from 2x5 ft - 10x 30 ft. She went on to tell us the ink is traditionally all-natural, rather expensive and often has perfume additives just to enhance the smell. The paper is usually handmade and at least 10 years old but, even this won't restrict the artists from attempting perfection over a 150 times for a single piece. Due to this unique combination of traditional ink and paper the brushstrokes produce an almost auric quality from each character. Afterward she presented us with a disc of traditional Japanese ink! Supposedly you just crush it up with pestle and mortar and add water. I'm looking forward to experimenting with this interesting ink.

AMERICAJIN HUMOR

2006-01-01T22:48:00.000-08:00

The now famous "Reverution" continues (Founder and Leader: Erin Lawrence)Ahh, I can breathe again having found some familiar landmark; SPAM for steal at just under 4 bucks.
...graffitti...
Want to slim those thighs and loose some of those xmas pounds? Test out the ever popular and effective saddle exercise machine!
Oh, and watch out for those low doorways...
As you might expect Tea Rounges are very popular.
"DON`T RUN INTO THE TRAIN!"
Naturally, "We`re the OPEN"

2006-01-01T21:55:00.000-08:00

This logo is everywhere you go in Japan. For the longest time we couldn`t figure out what kinda company it was for....was it a cat catcher co. or child day care? Actually it`s for a package delivery service. ...erin rockin a crab hat in dontombori...
...poor Prime Minister Kazumi.
From the World Expo in Aichi, representing Poland.
Imagine walking into your local 7 Eleven looking for your favorite shirp rice triangle and finding this guy...
might be difficult to see but, check out the lil kid on the sign.

Happy little somethings at a local shrine.Ahh, yes "YOU HAIR STUDIO"

Ever felt threatened by a teddy bear?

2006-01-01T21:30:00.000-08:00

Those of you who still find illustrated pictures of poo funny, like myself...whenever yall come to visit let me know in advance so I can get you a reservation at the "LUCKY PLAZA for human" of course.
Just some Japanese graffitti
From previous posts you`ve all seen Buddha wearing a bib but since it`s Winter now he has been sporting a beanie.
...more graffitti.

2005-12-22T00:51:00.000-08:00

The Japanese impression of American entertainment. Even dead the Japanese enjoy a cheap glass of sake.
These kind of ads are more common than thought probable. Yes, it seems there is a great deal of interest in plays acted soley by women.
Not sure...
... why it`s one chili pepper biting the head of another chili pepper of course...
"HOW DO YOU DO?

I WAS BORN IN FOREST"

enough said.

Oh and who could forget "ETERNAL The Peanuts" live in concert!

Next time you`re feeling lost on the bewildering streets of OSAKA take comfort in knowing that somewhere out there I`m lost too...and mildly amused.

2005-12-22T00:36:00.000-08:00

Excommunication: South Korea

2005-10-31T23:51:00.000-08:00

Welcome to Korea, South Korea that is, the land of multiple battles both ancient and modern. By all accounts this place shouldn't exist. Having been the territory between two Imperialistic powers; China and Japan, Korea became the staging grounds for many battles. While Erin and I visited there (on our rather unintended vacation) we visited the largest palace in Seoul. The palace began construction in 1394 A.D. during the Josen Dynasty and remains the largest and most elaborate of the Five Grand Palaces. When completed there were 330 buildings covering 410,000 sq meters of land. During the mid 16th century most of it was burned to the ground by a Japanese invasion and then rebuilt. Yet, again in 1911 all but 10 buildings were destroyed by yup you guessed it the Japanese. The structures that remain are still awe-inspiring. We visited the palace twice within the time we were in Korea and were lucky enough to visit during a reenactment of the changing of the guard.

The guards wearing red are higher ranking soldiers and carried short swords. Every guard was well-equipped with fake beards and mustaches, which they constantly had to press back on due to the heat. Some nearly fell over at times from nodding off to sleep while others kept busy by chewing gum. As for the cute guards wearing brown they were there to make you feel a little more welcomed. Even still I felt like when I walked by these guys they were going to swiftly lop off my head. You see, now this is what I'm talking about here. The guy in red (below right) is fast asleep. If it weren't for the kid in the Adidas t-shirt in the background (left) this would make or a pretty good shot. The ceremony began when this wussy guy, dressed in light blue, came out of a room above the main entrance and tinged a bell. After that he disappeared back inside to his card game. Then a not so wussy guy whammed on a giant drum and the changing of the guard was on. A new batch of guards appeared accompanied by guys playing instruments that sounding like bagpipes being slaughtered.

Oh yeah by the way the name of the palace is Gyeongbokgung (Gyeongbok Palace). Try saying that five times fast. After a couple of bows and checking of official nametags the old guards were replaced and we could move on into the rest of the palace.

There a shot of your intrepid adventurers standing on a stone pathway that is known as the

emperor's Walk. The middle stairs to every entrance are roped off, reserved only for royalty.

Every structure was colourfully painted and intricately designed.

On the left is a shot of the ceiling of the emperor's throne room where they discussed matters of war with the highest ranking generals.

Erin sitting in the general courtyard next to a stone with Korean characters carved in it to designate name and status. She is probably sitting just as ancient soldiers of the past have when the Emperor would address them before battle. Korea has had a troubled past with many enemies from ancient Liao to the Mongols, the Japanese, and also fighting amoungst themselves. Even their two major religions Confucianism and Buddhism have played a role in instigating some skirmishes.

A pagoda, surrounded by a man-made pond filled with coy, which the emperor used as a place of meditation. The royal family's study (top right). A Korean woman in traditional dress with a notably pissed-off look in her eye. The first time a snapped a photo of these ancient beauties they chased me off yelling in Korean. Apparently it may not be kosher to take their picture. Oh well at least I now know I can out run them.

For those nature lovers out there, a glimpse of South Korea's Flora & Fauna.

There's the giant coy, aprox. a meter long, some kind of black and white crow, and the swift carnivorous long-eared black squirrel.

Hope yall enjoyed this overdue view...

...well another stamp in the passport more taboos trounced upon and I'm still not sure what I 'm eating. Take care yall. (Fear not I am not wearing a Yankee's hat but rather a Hanshin Tigers hat. Osaka's die hard baseball team who tearfully were swept in the Japan Series.) Ja mata! (Later!)

Kyoto Temples & The Fires of Obon

2005-08-28T22:04:00.000-07:00

Kyoto lays claim to some of the oldest temples in Japan. The ancient city was one of the few spared bombing in World War II. Every year the Japanese celebrate their ancestors memory through Obon. Most businesses and schools close down for the week allowing everyone to visit temples and the local festivities. We traveled to Kyoto, which took about an hour, on the final day of Obon.

The first temple we came across was guarded by these ill-tempered fighting flying monks. Actually they were quite pleasent Buddhists, I think I could takem. They were going about there daily routine, which consisted of walking in groups and bowing at every shrine on their way. Must find out more about these flying monks.

One of the many shrines was dedicated to Buddha statues. Judging by the weathered stone these sculptures must be hundreds of years old. Some had been reduced to nothing more than a stone. Now you may be asking yourself "Hey Jeff, why is Buddha wearing a bib?" What a good question. The only explaination I have heard on the topic is that the red bib is supposed to `de-feminize` Buddha. Apparently, someone developed a complex that Buddha was looking to girly and decided to throw a apron on him. Lost yet...yeah ok good me too.

Also in celebration of Buddha they have dressed up the shrine in brilliant silk tapestries. The flowwing silk is meant to represent Buddha`s aura upon becoming enlightened. Very beautiful.

To the left there is a interesting shrine of feet engraved into the stone. I haven`t a clue on this one but, apparently people leave some yens for fourtune or prayer.

On the roof of most shrines you are likely to see these demons gaurding from evil spirits.

The Buddhist Temple was also the final resting place for many souls. If I had to guess I would say these grave markers were only for the Buddhist monks. They were very modest and tightly placed.

Just wanted to show you these photos of shrines being wheeled through the narrow streets of Imazato. This ritual is also apart of Obon.

They wheeled up to 10 shrines down the market ducking signs and dancing on top. Each shrine was equipped with drums and their own song or chant. When they approached another shrine they would stop and clap in unison as a sign of respect.

And now on to the main event. One of the main attractions of Obon takes place in Kyoto. Fires are set ablaze on the side of surrounding mountains in the form of enormous Japanese characters. This event marks the end of Obon. The first fire, and the most famous one, is daimonji (big character). This is the one I was able to get a good shot of. It is lit high up the slopes of Mount Daimonji on the east side of town, above Ginkaku-ji Temple. The other fires are myo (life), ho (Buddhist law), funagata (ship), and hidari daimonji (the left daimonji fire).

At the top of the mountain (Mt. Daimonji) in the background you can make out a clearing that has the character for `BIG`.

Below is the same mountain around 9 o`clock at night. The fires only take about 5 minutes to lite before you can make out the character miles away.

It seems the fires were first set by a monk for reasons that are still under speculation. Some accounts believe they were set to rid the area of disease by burning the bodies of those affected by the plague. Others say the fires are set to provide the dead with helpful roadsigns on their way back to the afterlife since all the partying of Obon is concluding. Lanterns were also set adrift down the rivers to guide the spirits along. Many other fires were set but, because of the sheer size of the event we were only able to see a few of the fires. Crowds filled the banks and spilled out onto the streets once again. We made it home safe and sound. The Obon fires were certainly an impressive sight. I have a feeling we will be returning to Kyoto to visit the many shrines and temples that populate the area. Check out Erin`s site to see photos of our daytrip to Kobe, a harbour town just West of Osaka. Til next time...

So this is Heaven...

2005-08-17T05:26:00.000-07:00

So this is Minoh. We were drawn to this beautiful place with promises of wild monkeys and a 100ft waterfall. Minoh is perched far upon a mountain. A town with a constant incline. Children here come well equipped with extendable nets for catching crawfish and yes minnows. The narrow road toward the waterfall snakes along the river it feeds into. The path is lined with family homes, the occasional shrine and a temple. Many paths branch off from the main road and lead to hidden shrines or treasure of sorts but, the all end at the waterfall.

The waterfall stands 100ft before you and you become silent. Many people are there...all lost in their own thoughts...
losing themselves. Perhaps thinking back to the awesome power of an ancient earthquake ripping apart the river to make such a beautiful sight to behold. I visit there often day to day.

There`s Erin taking in the sights. If you look to her left you will see a sign there that must say STAY OUT or something to that effect. I know because I crossed the point of no return and was told to go back by the patroling peoples. This is a most beautiful place and I plan to return not just in my mind.

Then just as we were leaving, satisfied having taken in the waterfall, we come across a family of wild monkeys. This is the first time I had ever seen monkeys outside of a zoo. Aparently it would be comparitive to seeing a deer in the U.S. They just sauntered out of the wood and sat by the river eating anything that was green. Amazing!

And now for another monkey not too far removed from those above.

I had Erin catalog my camera`s long awaited arrival. There it is in a box that looks like it had been thrown from one side of the World to the other. The wonders of duck tape never cease to amaze! I am right in the middle of saying `Hai` like a ninja blade ready.

Hey! Cheez-Itz! And my hat, a bit crushed but here for the stylin. Ahh Cheez Itz a very hot commodity around here since they don`t exist. It kinda makes me feel like flexing........

And then there she was...my eyes and the viewfinder met and it was love at first sight. The Nikon D70s how I will strive to know her ways. My first digital SLR could not have come at a better time. My Minolta basic lens decided it was time and konked out with grace. I can`t thank you guys enough. It is the perfect gift for a place that everything I lay my eyes upon is new. Thank you so much!

But a....how do you work this thing?

I have been reading the manual and learning all the amazing things it can do and I have literally taken hundreds of pictures already. I will be posting them soon. Episodes to come Japanese graffitti, Me becoming a true Osakan by eating octopus balls, Kyoto Festival for Obon (its like Halloween) and our new apartment. Check out Erin`s blog to see more fotos! Til the next episode...Happy Obon!

Meeting with a Whale Shark and assorted fisheries

2005-08-04T00:22:00.000-07:00

Osaka Aquarium boasts the largest marine creature on display, the Whale Shark! I`ve only seen footage of this guy on the discovery channel before now. It was about 25ft long with a posse of lesser fish following him around. The tank they eld him in was ginormous. It took up three floors and was filled with numerous rays, sharks, tuna, and schooling fishes. Amazing! Yet still more exciting exhibits lay right ahead...

Next we approached a very dimmly lit habitat. What ever you do do not turn on the light....AHHHHHHh!!!!

Check out that creepy crawller>>>

It was like looking upon aliens for the first time. Feasting on something toward the center, moving in slow motion, the smaller ones getting the hell out of the way of the larger ones. What do I mean larger ones? Let me show you...

Look at the size of that thing! IF it streached out its claws I bet it would have a 10ft reach. Imagine that thing tapping you on the shoulder 100ft down. Lastly I have a couple of photos from the jelly fish exhibit. Sometimes you can click on these photos to enlarge. Its hit or miss.

These guys are just beautiful. There is no other way to put it.

Couldn`t elp but get abstract with the luminiscent tenticles...

After the aquarium Erin and I went to a swanky curry place and had a great meal followed up by tea and these things. The owner, a sweet woman, leaned over and just said "Japanese snack"

It`s great to have snacks that have a sense of trepidation that they are about to be eaten.

So that was our trip to Osaka Aquarium! I hope you enjoyed it as much as we did. On an unrealated final note, here is a shot of the four of us enjoying our first home cooked meal at our new apartment. On the roof, baby!

1st real post since living here for almost a fortnight

2005-07-17T13:28:00.000-07:00

sorry i didn:t get around to this til now but i:ve been moving around quite a bit. and as for my speelig and gramr don:t read to closely because the japanese keyboard ain:t what im use to.

here is the last photo i took of good ole` america.
how i miss her.

a heavy fog lay over chicago as it almost always does and lake michigan can be seen beyond the city.

the next shot is my first look of japan. my home away from home. home never smelled tasted looked so funny.
this is, i believe, the northern side of kansai. for those of you not hip to my tips, kansai is the prefecture i live in which includes the osaka city. osaka is the 2nd largest city in japan, next to tokyo. it has 2.6 million redsidents and over a million commuters a day. i know, i counted. actually been reading my travel books a lot for the info and just to read something in english.

here is a couple of shots of osaka. one from at night in downtown called dontonburi and one from a giant ferris wheel in the middle of osaka.

this place was a couple of blocks down from my hotel and had the best food and karaoke places in the area. i:ll get to the karaoke another time. time is short.

every major city you go to they have a giant ferris wheel. there:s some wierd facination there, i don:t know. they use every square foot here above and below. underground malls snake through the city and everything surrounding the city is over 5 stories min. osaka actually has two center cities to make up for its size just so one side doesn:t feel left out from the action.

on the right is a quandry. what is it? look at the top center of the photo and you:ll see a yellow thingy. is it a bird is it an insect...you decide. prize to the first to properly identify that thing.

finally a picture of the four of us one the ground and safe and sound in osaka international airport. the first picture taken on the crime free streets of osaka.

there are plenty more pictures to come, but until next time friends and family...

much love,

jeff erin jenn kevin